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The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is a 1.5–2 cm red nano fish that does best in a mature, densely planted aquarium, not a bare or newly cycled bowl. Keep at least eight, preferably 12 or more, in a covered tank of about 10 gallons (38 litres) with gentle flow, stable soft water, and food fine enough for a pinhead-sized mouth. A specialist 5-gallon species-only tank can work for 8–10 fish, but three gallons is too unstable for most keepers.
These peaceful egg-scatterers live among peat-swamp streams in southern and southwestern Borneo. Their success depends less on chasing an exact pH than on avoiding swings, strong currents, oversized food and large tank mates. The guide below covers identification, setup, water, diet, compatibility, breeding and health, with the evidence limits around wild populations and tank-size advice made explicit.
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Boraras brigittae (Vogt, 1978) is commonly sold as the chili rasbora, chilli rasbora or mosquito rasbora. It belongs to the family Danionidae; older references may place rasboras in Cyprinidae. The genus Boraras was separated from Rasbora in 1993. As Seriously Fish explains, “Boraras : anagram of the generic name Rasbora, in reference to the reversed ratio of abdominal and caudal vertebrae in this genus.” Dieter Vogt named the species for his wife, Brigitte.
Wild fish are endemic to Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan), including the Banjarmasin type locality and, according to records compiled by Seriously Fish, the Jelai Bila basin near Sukamara. They inhabit slow blackwater streams, pools and ditches in peat-swamp forest. Leaf litter, roots and wood release tannins, the water is extremely soft, and dense forest canopy keeps light low.
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Healthy aquarium adults are usually 0.6–0.8 inch (1.5–2 cm). FishBase records a maximum of 3.5 cm total length, an extreme rather than a normal shop size. They are slim and compressed, with a continuous dark lateral stripe, a brighter red band above it, red-and-black fin markings and a clear to pale-red tail. Males are smaller, slimmer and more intensely red; females are longer and fuller, especially when carrying eggs.
Juveniles, newly imported fish and stressed fish can look brown or almost transparent. Full adult colour commonly develops at four to six months and can take nearer a year in slow-growing or poorly fed fish. Aquarium lifespan is typically four to six years, with about eight years cited as an upper hobby estimate; no measured maximum lifespan in the wild has been published.
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A mature, planted 5-gallon (19-litre) aquarium can hold about 8–10 chili rasboras as a species-only group, with shrimp or snails, if filtration and weekly maintenance are reliable. For a first setup, a 10-gallon tank with a footprint at least 45 cm (18 inches) long is the safer recommendation: it buffers water changes, gives males room for temporary territories and supports a group of 12 or more. Do not treat a 3-gallon tank as a normal recommendation; its small water volume can swing dangerously fast.
| Tank and stocking | What it suits | Main limitation |
|---|---|---|
| 5 gal / 19 L, mature and planted | 8–10 chili rasboras only, plus adult shrimp or snails | Little room for mistakes; no active community fish |
| 10 gal / 38 L, preferably 45 cm long | 12–18 fish; a practical species tank or restrained nano community | Still needs gentle flow and careful feeding |
| 20 gal long | 20–30 fish or a more varied community with compatible nano species | Additional species increase feeding competition and bioload |
Published recommendations range from experienced keepers reporting success in three gallons to guides requiring roughly 40–45 litres. The common point is that a longer, planted footprint and a stable biofilter matter more than a cube’s nominal volume. Seriously Fish specifies a base of at least 45 × 30 cm (about 41 litres), while Practical Fishkeeping cautions that a 20-litre tank can crowd a group of 10 and swing too readily. Use the 10-gallon standard unless you already manage a mature 5-gallon species tank confidently.
What water parameters do chili rasboras need?
Keep water stable, clean and on the soft, acidic-to-near-neutral side. Wild peat water can be as acidic as pH 4.0, while aquarium-bred fish often adapt to nearer-neutral conditions. FishBase lists pH 6.5–7.0, but that narrow field does not describe the full peat-swamp habitat; use it as an incomplete database entry rather than a reason to force a number.
| Parameter | Practical target | Broader tolerated range reported in aquarium guidance |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 74–80°F (23–27°C) | 68–82°F (20–28°C) |
| pH | 5.5–7.0 | 4.5–7.5; some captive fish have lived at pH 6.0–8.0 when stable |
| GH | 1–6 dGH | 0–10 dGH |
| KH | 0–3 dKH | 0–6 dKH |
| Ammonia and nitrite | 0 ppm | Any detectable reading requires action |
| Nitrate | Below 20 ppm; below 10 ppm for breeding | Lower is preferable in a small tank |
Hard, alkaline tap water is a common slow-failure pattern: one care guide cites pH 7.5–8.2 and GH 8–15 as particularly problematic when the fish are also stressed or underfed. If your tap is hard, blend reverse-osmosis water with tap water and remineralise consistently. Catappa (Indian almond) leaves or alder cones add tannins and cover. Do not make abrupt pH corrections with chemical buffers; a steady pH is safer than repeatedly chasing a wild-water value.
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How do you set up a chili rasbora aquarium?
- Cycle and mature the tank. Establish biological filtration and allow plants, surfaces and leaf litter to develop biofilm before adding fish. A new, sterile tank is a poor environment even if a test kit briefly shows zero ammonia.
- Choose a long footprint. Use a 10-gallon tank at least 45 cm long when possible. A 5-gallon setup should be species-only and heavily planted.
- Provide cover and a swimming lane. Plant fine-leaved stems, Java moss and floating plants densely around the edges while leaving an open mid-water lane. Dark sand or aquasoil, driftwood and a thin layer of leaves reduce glare and encourage natural colour.
- Keep flow gentle. A sponge filter is ideal. A hang-on-back or canister can work with a baffled outlet and a pre-filter sponge on the intake; tiny fish can be pulled into an uncovered intake.
- Control light. Dim-to-moderate lighting and floating shade help newly introduced fish settle. Tannin-stained blackwater is optional for survival but often improves security and colour.
- Fit a tight lid. Chili rasboras can jump when startled, during maintenance or after a sudden light change. Seal gaps around cables and filter equipment.
- Use a heater unless the room is reliably in range. Set it around 76–78°F (24–26°C), avoiding rapid daily changes.
Two styles work well. A low-cost blackwater layout uses leaf litter, wood, tannins and perhaps emersed houseplants. A green aquascape uses dense live plants; aquasoil and injected carbon dioxide may lower pH, so monitor the resulting chemistry. In either style, cover, gentle circulation and stable maintenance are more important than decoration.
What do chili rasboras eat?
They are micro-predators that take zooplankton, insect larvae, worms and tiny crustaceans in nature. In an aquarium the limiting factor is mouth size: ordinary flakes can be physically impossible to swallow. Glassbox Diaries recommends foods designed for fry or very small nano fish, and Tropical Treasures warns that fish may ignore food that is too large and slowly starve.
- Use powdered flakes, Hikari First Bites, Hikari Micro Wafers, Fluval Bug Bites Micro, Xtreme Nano, crushed small granules or powdered gel food.
- Other workable staples include New Life Spectrum Nano, Bug Bites Tropical Small Granules, crushed krill flakes and finely powdered Repashy.
- Offer live or frozen baby brine shrimp several times a week for conditioning and colour. Cyclops, daphnia, microworms, vinegar eels and rotifers add useful variety.
Feed one or two tiny meals daily, only what the group consumes in roughly two minutes. Food should float or sink slowly through the mid-water lane. Feed before faster tank mates if necessary, or scatter powder in several places so every fish gets particles. Remove uneaten food rather than compensating with a larger next meal.
Are chili rasboras schooling fish?
Yes, they are shoaling fish, not a pair species. A group of 12 or more is usually bolder, more visible and more colourful; fewer than eight often hide and fade. They do not form a rigid, all-day synchronized school: they spread through plants, regroup in open water and males perform brief, harmless displays around temporary territories.
Place the group in the upper and middle levels. A dark background, floating plants and a quiet tank allow normal red colour and reduce skittishness. Adding more fish to a cramped tank is not a substitute for adequate footprint; upgrade the aquarium first.
Can chili rasboras live with bettas?
Sometimes, but only with a known-calm betta in a planted tank of at least 10 gallons and a backup plan. Individual bettas may ignore chili rasboras, while others hunt or harass them; the rasboras’ 2 cm size makes them vulnerable. Introduce the rasboras to a heavily planted, established aquarium, provide multiple escape routes and monitor continuously for chasing, hiding or missing fish.
Do not attempt this pairing in a 5-gallon tank or with a territorial, highly predatory betta. A separate cycled tank is essential if the combination fails.
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Can chili rasboras live with shrimp?
Adult Neocaridina and many Caridina shrimp are among the safest companions. Dense Java moss and other fine cover protect shrimplets, but no small fish-and-shrimp aquarium is guaranteed to preserve every newborn. Amano shrimp and nerite or clithon snails are also generally compatible.
Other suitable community choices, with adequate space, include ember tetras, celestial pearl danios, pygmy corydoras, sparkling gourami, dwarf pencilfish and, in tanks of 20 gallons or more, Otocinclus. Avoid zebra danios, tiger barbs, angelfish, most cichlids, guppies and mollies, and any fish able to swallow a 2 cm rasbora. Neon tetras are peaceful but faster at feeding time, so they can leave chili rasboras underfed.
Are chili rasboras hardy?
They can be hardy once settled in a mature, stable aquarium, but they are not forgiving of a new tank, abrupt chemistry changes or chronic underfeeding. Practical Fishkeeping calls them surprisingly sensitive, while Aquarium Co-Op reports captive fish tolerating pH 6.0–8.0, 72–82°F (22–28°C) and soft-to-hard water. Both observations fit the same pattern: established fish may adapt broadly, whereas shipping, cycling errors and unstable hard tap water cause losses.
Buy active fish with intact fins and full bellies, ask for the scientific name, and quarantine when the display already contains fish. Wild-caught imports can carry internal parasites; a sunken belly despite normal colour is a warning sign. Dim the aquarium during introduction and drip-acclimate slowly, matching temperature and avoiding a sudden transfer between very different pH or hardness.
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Why are my chilli rasboras pale and not colouring up?
Paleness is usually a response to stress, youth or unsuitable surroundings, not a permanent colour variety. Newly imported fish, juveniles under four to six months, bright bare tanks, hard alkaline water, strong current, small groups and poor food all suppress red colour.
- Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, temperature, pH, GH and KH; correct toxins or swings before changing anything else.
- Check that at least eight fish are present and that plants or floating cover create shaded refuge.
- Watch feeding: if larger companions take every particle, feed powdered nano food in several areas or feed the rasboras first.
- Add gentle tannin sources such as catappa leaves if compatible with your chosen chemistry, and keep weekly changes consistent.
Persistent wasting, surface-hanging or rapid breathing needs a water check first, followed by veterinary or specialist diagnosis. Velvet can appear as fine gold dust under side lighting; ich resembles white grains of salt. Copper medications are dangerous in shrimp tanks, and raising temperature to 30°C as a blanket ich treatment is not recommended for these fish.
Why do chili rasboras jump out of the tank?
They jump when startled by sudden movement, a light switching on, a net, strong flow or a tank mate’s chase. Their small size lets them pass through surprisingly narrow openings. Use a tight-fitting lid, cover filter and airline gaps, baffle outlets and keep lighting changes gradual. A jump event is also a reason to check whether the group is undersized or the tank lacks plant cover.
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Do chili rasboras need a heater?
Use an adjustable nano heater unless the room remains between about 74 and 80°F (23–27°C) all year, including overnight. They tolerate roughly 68–82°F (20–28°C), but repeated daily drops are more stressful than a steady set point. Protect the heater with a guard, verify it with a separate thermometer and make water changes temperature-matched.
How do you breed chilli rasboras (Boraras brigittae)?
Chili rasboras are continuous egg-scatterers, not livebearers. A ripe female releases a few adhesive eggs among moss, leaves or other cover each day; adults provide no parental care and may eat eggs or fry.
FishBase records “Up to 50 eggs are deposited on the underside of leaves. Larvae hatch after 48 hours.” Other guides describe three to six eggs per event, 20–60 eggs in a broader spawning session, hatching in 24–36 hours, or free-swimming fry after three to four days. These are different observation windows, not a reason to force one clutch number.
Controlled breeding setup
- Use a dim, mature spawning tank with very soft water, pH about 5.0–6.5 and 77–80°F (25–27°C).
- Add Java moss or a spawning mop; a mesh floor can let eggs fall beyond adult reach.
- Condition adults for one to two weeks with live baby brine shrimp and other small foods.
- Move a group into the spawning tank, then remove adults after a day or two. A tiny sponge filter prevents fry from being sucked in.
- Expect hatching in roughly one to two days. Eggs and larvae are light-sensitive, so keep lighting subdued.
- Feed infusoria, paramecium or liquid fry food first. Progress to vinegar eels and microworms, then newly hatched brine shrimp at about day 10 as mouths grow.
Growth is slow; adult colour commonly appears at four to six months. In a dense, mature, fish-only planted aquarium, a few fry may survive without intervention, especially where moss and leaf litter provide microscopic food and refuge.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How can you tell male and female chili rasboras apart?
Adult males are slimmer, smaller and usually a deeper, more uniform red, with stronger fin markings. Females are paler orange-red and slightly longer or rounder, becoming conspicuously full when carrying eggs. Fish younger than roughly four to six months are difficult to sex reliably, so do not reject healthy juveniles based on colour alone.
What is the difference between a chili rasbora and a pygmy rasbora?
“Pygmy rasbora” is a shop term applied to several tiny Boraras species, so the scientific name matters. Chili rasboras are B. brigittae, with a continuous dark lateral stripe and an overall bright red body. Exclamation-point or least rasboras (B. urophthalmoides) have a separate dark caudal-peduncle blotch; phoenix rasboras (B. merah) concentrate red around a darker mid-body mark; strawberry rasboras (B. naevus) show one large dark spot; dwarf rasboras (B. maculatus) are paler with several round spots.
Stores sometimes mislabel these fish, and a 2010 speculation proposed that B. brigittae and B. merah might be one species, while Kottelat’s 2013 treatment keeps them separate. Ask for the scientific name and inspect adult markings before buying.
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Chili rasbora vs ember tetra: which is better for a small tank?
Choose chili rasboras when you want the smaller fish, a soft-water blackwater style and a shrimp-friendly shoal. Ember tetras are also peaceful, but they are larger and generally more competitive at feeding time; either species benefits from a planted 10-gallon rather than a cramped nano cube.
| Consideration | Chili rasbora | Ember tetra |
|---|---|---|
| Adult size | About 1.5–2 cm | Larger-bodied nano tetra |
| Best group | 12 or more when space allows | A proper shoal in a planted community tank |
| Water style | Soft, acidic to near-neutral; tannins welcome | Usually adaptable, but avoid sudden swings |
| Feeding | Powder or fry-sized food is essential | Small foods, generally less constrained by mouth size |
| Shrimp | Adults are generally safe; moss protects young | May also take some shrimplets |
Celestial pearl danios are another option for a planted nano community, but they have different behaviour and are not a substitute for the calm, tiny shoal of chili rasboras. Match fish by adult size, feeding speed and water chemistry rather than by colour alone.
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How long do chili rasboras live?
Plan on four to six years in a well-maintained aquarium; approximately eight years is a frequently cited hobby ceiling, not a scientifically established wild maximum. Stable temperature, zero ammonia and nitrite, low nitrate, tiny nutritious foods, quarantine and a stress-free shoal matter more than trying to extend life with a single additive.
What is known about wild chili rasbora conservation?
The IUCN Red List assessment (assessed 6 February 2019, published 2020) states, “Boraras brigittae is listed as Data Deficient.” It estimates 10,000–100,000 mature individuals, reports a decreasing trend and notes continuing decline in habitat quality. Agriculture, harvesting of aquatic resources, and dams or other water-management changes are coded threats. The species occurs in at least one protected area and is traded nationally and internationally.
Data Deficient does not mean Endangered, nor does it mean the fish is secure. Peat-swamp drainage and conversion can remove the slow, tannin-rich habitats on which its range depends. Buying correctly identified, responsibly sourced fish and maintaining them for their full lifespan reduces pressure to replace losses from poor acclimation or unsuitable tanks.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can chili rasboras live in untreated tap water?
They may survive near-neutral tap water if it is soft enough and remains stable, particularly when farm-bred. Test GH, KH and pH first; hard alkaline water should be diluted with reverse-osmosis water and remineralised rather than corrected with abrupt buffers.
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Wait until the aquarium is fully cycled and has matured biofilm, plants and stable readings, not merely until a test kit shows a temporary zero. Add the shoal after several days of consistent ammonia and nitrite results, then feed lightly while monitoring.
Why are some fish sold as chili rasboras not bright red?
Retail shipments often contain juveniles, stressed imports or another Boraras species. Compare the adult’s continuous stripe with the blotches of look-alikes and request the scientific name before purchase; colour normally strengthens as fish mature and settle.
Will chili rasboras eat their own fry?
Yes. They scatter eggs without parental care and can consume eggs or newly hatched larvae. Moss, leaf litter and a mesh spawning setup improve survival, while a separate fry tank gives the best control.
Are wild-caught chili rasboras different from farm-bred fish?
Both occur in the trade, but a verified 2026 percentage split is unavailable. Wild imports may arrive with internal parasites and need careful quarantine and genuinely soft water; captive-bred fish often accept a somewhat wider, stable pH range.
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