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How to Keep Cats Away From TVs: 9 Safety Steps for Your Home

Keep a TV safer around cats by securing the screen and its supporting furniture, hiding or covering accessible cords, and offering suitable scratching alternatives.

By Animalso Team 12 min read

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To cat-proof a TV, prevent it from tipping, keep its power and signal cords out of reach, and give your cat appropriate places to scratch and perch elsewhere. The nine steps below draw on veterinary, animal-welfare and official product-safety guidance; the sources do not certify this exact list as formally “vet-approved,” and alternatives cannot guarantee that a cat will stay off the TV area.

What are the main TV hazards for cats?

There are two different problems to solve: a TV or its supporting furniture may tip if a cat jumps or climbs on it, and an accessible cord may be batted, pulled or chewed. The practical safeguards are different. Anchors and a stable setup reduce tip-over risk; routing or covering cords reduces access to electrical wiring.

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These precautions matter even if a TV looks steady. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) reports that toppling furniture has killed at least 28 people in Australia since 2000 and causes nearly 20 injuries a week. Those figures concern toppling furniture generally—not cats or televisions specifically—but illustrate why securing heavy household items is worthwhile. See the ACCC’s guide to toppling furniture and televisions.

Start with a short safety audit. Identify whether the screen is on a stand or wall-mounted, what material supports the anchor, where the furniture is attached, and every route a power, HDMI, antenna or speaker cable takes. Look from a cat’s eye level for loops, gaps and dangling ends. A setup can pass a quick adult inspection yet still offer a paw-sized opening behind the stand.

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How can you make a TV safer around a cat?

Work through these nine steps, beginning with stability and electrical access. The right anchor, attachment point and cord solution depend on your TV, furniture and room layout, so follow the relevant product instructions rather than assuming one setup fits every home.

  1. Anchor the TV with compatible hardware

    Use an anchor designed for the specific TV and intended installation. Official guidance recommends anchoring a TV to a wall or suitable furniture and checking that the hardware supports the TV and suits its type. Follow both the TV manufacturer’s instructions and the anchor manufacturer’s instructions, including guidance about where and how to attach it. An anchor that is unsuitable for the TV or the surface cannot be assumed to provide protection.

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    The ACCC says, “Most TVs come with anchor straps.” Check the instructions and packaging for your own TV before relying on a strap, and do not assume that an included strap is appropriate for every possible mounting surface. The American Academy of Pediatrics’ advice on anchoring televisions also emphasizes anchoring to prevent tipping.

    Check the television’s weight, attachment points and stand design against the kit’s stated limits. A strap intended for one style of base may not fit another. Do not substitute tape, a thin string or an improvised screw for the specified hardware, and do not drill into a wall or cabinet until you know what structure and services are behind it.

  2. Secure the furniture supporting the TV

    If the TV sits on an entertainment unit or stand, consider securing that furniture to the wall using a method appropriate to the furniture and wall. Otherwise, the unit and TV may move together. A TV strap does not by itself secure an unsecured cabinet, and a furniture anchor does not replace the TV’s own appropriate restraint. Check that each attachment point is suitable for the load and material, and follow the product directions.

    Inspect the stand’s feet, shelves and doors as well. A narrow, top-heavy unit, a stand with casters, or a cabinet resting on an uneven floor can shift when a cat launches from it. Remove heavy objects from high shelves if they could fall during movement, and leave enough clearance to tighten or inspect the anchor without pinching cables.

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  3. Choose a sturdy, low position

    Place the TV on a stable base intended to support it; do not balance it on furniture that is unsuitable or unstable. Official product-safety guidance recommends a sturdy, low base. Keeping the set lower can reduce how far it might fall, but it is not a substitute for anchoring it.

    Applying this advice to a cat that jumps or climbs is a sensible household-safety measure, not a cat-specific result established by the cited sources. Stability still matters most: lowering a TV does not make it safe if its base can slide, tip or move.

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    Keep the screen centered on the stand rather than overhanging an edge, and keep the stand away from a route the cat uses as a running jump. Do not put a television on a lightweight table, stack books beneath its feet, or use a decorative shelf that was not designed for the load.

  4. Route cords out of your cat’s reach

    Run power and signal cables behind or beneath furniture where the layout allows, and remove loose loops that dangle within paw’s reach. Animal-welfare guidance specifically warns against leaving TV wires hanging where cats can reach them. Keep any cable bundle organized rather than leaving long, swinging sections to invite batting or chewing. Do not pull a cable tight or route it in a way that conflicts with the equipment’s instructions.

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    Bundle only cables that are intended to be together, leave the slack required for ventilation and servicing, and keep connectors from resting where a cat can drag them out. Route a mains lead so the plug and any power strip cannot be pulled forward. Check behind the unit after cleaning; vacuuming or moving the stand can create a new loop even when the television itself has not moved.

  5. Cover cords that remain exposed

    If routing alone cannot keep a cable inaccessible, use a suitable commercial cord cover or protector. The American Academy of Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) recommends cord protectors or hiding cords behind or under furniture. The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) warns that chewing a live electrical cord can cause burns or electrocution; its household-hazards handout advises, “Prevent this by using cord covers and blocking access to wires.” Read the AVMA household-hazards guidance.

    A cover is an added barrier, not a guarantee that a determined cat cannot reach the cable. Inspect the setup for gaps, loose sections and accessible ends. If your cat can still get to the wire, change the route or block access rather than relying on the cover alone.

    Choose a cover that fits the cable diameter and can be secured according to its instructions. Do not enclose a damaged, hot or overloaded cable; unplug equipment and replace a compromised lead as appropriate. Keep covers away from heat-producing vents and make sure a cat cannot pull the entire covered bundle loose from one exposed end.

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  6. Keep the area around the TV uncluttered

    Organize nearby cable bundles and put away small loose objects or dangling items that could invite play. A tidy area makes it easier to spot accessible wiring and reduces tempting things for a cat to swat or pull. This is a practical access-management step, not evidence that a particular TV-area deterrent will stop climbing.

    Do not treat a deterrent as a replacement for anchoring the TV and furniture or managing live cords. The cited guidance supports keeping cords organized and out of reach; it does not establish a specific TV deterrent as reliably effective.

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    Keep remotes, game controllers, batteries, adapters and small decorative objects off the stand when you are not using them. Secure dangling fabric or toy strings elsewhere, and avoid placing a cat tree or shelf so close that it becomes a direct launch platform onto the screen.

  7. Offer a suitable scratching surface

    Scratching is normal feline behavior. Give your cat a sturdy scratching post or scratcher that will not tip or slide easily, and consider different orientations or materials if one option is ignored. AAHA and the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) include appropriate scratching options in their behavioral guidance. See the AAHA pet-proofing advice and the AAFP Feline Behavior Guidelines.

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    A scratcher gives a cat an appropriate outlet, but it is not a proven TV-climbing prevention device. Keep the TV safe even if your cat uses the alternative consistently.

    Some cats prefer a vertical post, while others use a horizontal pad or a particular texture. Select a base broad enough to resist tipping during a full-body stretch, and replace a worn surface when it no longer offers a usable scratching area.

  8. Place alternatives where your cat is likely to use them

    Location can make an alternative more useful. AAHA recommends putting sturdy scratching posts near high-traffic areas, while AAFP guidance describes placing them near locations cats favor, such as windows or sleeping areas. Choose a position that fits your cat’s established habits and does not put the alternative so close to the TV that it creates a convenient launch point onto the screen or stand.

    This is thoughtful placement, not a guarantee that a cat will choose the post over every other surface. If the cat continues to approach the TV, keep the physical safety measures in place and reconsider whether the alternative is stable, accessible and appealing to that cat.

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    Observe where the cat already scratches or rests, then offer the alternative nearby without blocking a doorway or heating vent. If you move it, recheck that the new position does not expose a cord or allow the cat to reach behind the television.

  9. Recheck after moving or changing equipment

    Moving a TV, changing its stand, replacing a cable, or rearranging furniture can change which anchor points and cord routes are appropriate. After any change, check that the TV and supporting furniture remain stable, that attachments still follow their manufacturers’ directions, and that no new cable loops have become accessible. Compatibility depends on the actual equipment and installation, so do not assume an old arrangement still applies after a change.

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    Include routine checks in your cleaning schedule. Look for loosened fasteners, pulled straps, cracked plastic, a stand that has begun to rock, or chew marks on a protector. Re-tighten or replace components only as the product instructions permit; if the TV or wall structure is damaged, stop using the setup until it is repaired.

Should you wall-mount a TV or anchor it to furniture?

Either approach depends on whether the TV and anchor support the intended installation, whether the wall or furniture offers a suitable attachment point, and whether the furniture itself can be secured. Official guidance discusses anchoring a TV to a wall or suitable furniture; it does not establish one method as best for every room or TV.

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If you keep the TV on a stand, check the stand’s stability and secure the supporting unit as appropriate. If you mount the TV, use hardware and an installation method suitable for that TV and the structure it attaches to. In either setup, follow the product instructions and account for the furniture or structure supporting the screen. Do not assume that mounting the TV automatically secures a separate cabinet beneath it.

Wall mounting can remove the screen from a cat’s jumping surface, but the mount must be attached to a suitable wall structure and installed for the television’s weight. A furniture-mounted TV may be simpler where the wall is unsuitable, but both the TV and cabinet then need appropriate restraint. Compare the actual attachment material—such as a solid wall, a suitable stud or a cabinet designed for the load—not just the appearance of the finished installation.

Whichever option you choose, leave enough access to inspect anchors and route cables safely. A neat installation that cannot be checked can allow a loose fastener or chewed cord to go unnoticed.

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How should you choose between hiding and covering TV cords?

First, see whether the cables can be routed behind or beneath furniture without leaving dangling sections within reach. If some cable must remain exposed, a suitable cord protector adds a physical barrier. Veterinary and animal-welfare advice supports hiding cords or using covers, but the available sources do not compare particular products or show that any cover is chew-proof.

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Check the whole route, not just the visible section beside the TV: accessible loops or ends can still invite chewing. If a cover leaves a gap your cat can reach, revise the arrangement or block access. The goal is an inaccessible cable, not simply a neater-looking one.

Hiding is usually the first choice when furniture can safely conceal the entire route. Covering is useful where a short section must cross an open area. Do not combine several loose extension leads simply to reach a hidden location, and do not place a cord under a rug if the product instructions or heat conditions make that unsafe.

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What should you avoid relying on?

Do not rely on a scratcher, tidy-looking cables or a behavioral deterrent to compensate for an unsecured TV or furniture. Those measures serve different purposes: an alternative supports normal scratching behavior, while an anchor addresses tip-over risk and cord management addresses access to electrical wires. Keep the direct safety measures in place regardless of whether your cat appears uninterested in the TV.

Likewise, do not assume that all TVs, straps, stands, walls or cord covers are interchangeable. The official guidance calls for suitable hardware and installation. Read the instructions for the particular products and reassess the setup whenever its components or layout change.

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There is no cited comparative test showing that one anti-tip kit, cord cover, spray or cat furniture arrangement prevents incidents for every cat. Treat product descriptions as specifications to verify, not as a promise of universal behavior change.

What is the practical checklist?

  • The TV is secured with hardware suitable for its model and installation.
  • The stand or entertainment unit is stable and secured where appropriate.
  • The TV sits on a base intended to support it.
  • Power and signal cables are routed out of reach, with no dangling loops.
  • Any exposed cable has a suitable cover, and the cat cannot reach around it.
  • Nearby loose or dangling items are put away.
  • A stable scratching option is available in a location that suits the cat.
  • The whole setup is rechecked after equipment or furniture is moved.
  • Fasteners, straps, cable covers and plugs show no damage or chew marks.
  • The cat cannot use nearby furniture as a direct launch point onto the screen.

How much do anti-tip kits cost?

In a 2023 statement, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission said anti-tip-over kits could be ordered online or purchased at a local hardware store for “$20 or less.” That figure is a dated U.S. reference, not a current price quote and not evidence that every kit fits every television. Check compatibility, included hardware and the condition of the wall or furniture before buying.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a cat get electrocuted by chewing a TV cord?

Yes. The AVMA warns that chewing a live electrical cord can cause burns or electrocution. If a cat has chewed a cord, keep people and pets away from the damaged wire and seek veterinary advice promptly, especially if the cat may have contacted a live cable.

Are anti-tip kits expensive?

A 2023 U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission statement said anti-tip-over kits could be ordered online or bought at a local hardware store for “$20 or less.” That is a dated U.S. statement, not a current price estimate or a guarantee that a particular kit suits your TV.

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Will a scratching post stop my cat from climbing the TV?

Not necessarily. Scratching is normal behavior, and a suitable post provides an appropriate outlet, but the cited veterinary guidance does not establish that a post reliably prevents TV climbing.

Does “vet-approved” mean every veterinarian has endorsed these tips?

No. Veterinary and animal-welfare organizations support several of the underlying recommendations, especially cord safety and scratching options, but the sources do not show that veterinarians formally approved this exact nine-tip list.

Is wall mounting always safer than using a TV stand?

No single method is established as best for every room. Wall mounting and furniture anchoring both require hardware suited to the TV and attachment structure. A cabinet beneath a wall-mounted screen may still need its own restraint.

The Bottom Line

The reliable priorities are physical: anchor the television with compatible hardware, secure the furniture beneath it, use a stable base, and keep live cords hidden or protected. A well-placed scratching surface can support normal feline behavior, but it is not a guaranteed TV deterrent. Recheck the entire arrangement whenever equipment or furniture changes.

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