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ANIMALSO
Breeding

How to Keep Elegance Coral Healthy: Placement, Feeding, Light and Fragging

Place elegance coral on stable sand or a smooth lower surface, provide gentle indirect flow, acclimate it slowly to light, feed small meaty foods occasionally and avoid routine fragging.

By Animalso Team 9 min read

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Elegance coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei) does best when treated as a fleshy, free-living stony coral rather than a rock-mounted colony. Set it on soft sand or another smooth lower surface, give it gentle-to-moderate indirect movement, acclimate it slowly to your aquarium light, and leave enough room for its expanded tentacles and sweepers. It obtains energy from symbiotic algae and can capture small prey, so occasional small meaty foods such as mysis are useful supplements. Routine fragging is a poor choice: the single-polyp structure is easily injured, and cutting can lead to infection.

What elegance coral is and where it lives

Elegance coral is the common aquarium name for Catalaphyllia jardinei, a large-polyp stony (LPS) coral. An individual has a hard, cone-shaped skeleton covered by a large fleshy polyp. When fully expanded, its oral disc and tentacles can become much wider than the skeleton, which is why a specimen that looks small in a shop may require substantial floor space in a mature aquarium.

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Adults are commonly free-living. An Australian government fishery assessment describes the species as usually resting with its cone-shaped base embedded in soft substrate, and the IUCN species fact sheet describes individuals or colonies in depressions in sand. That natural history answers the common question, “Where should I place it—sand or rock?”: begin with sand or a smooth, stable lower area. Do not wedge its fleshy sides into sharp live rock or force the skeleton into a crevice.

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Elegance coral contains symbiotic zooxanthellae, which provide much of its energy through photosynthesis. It also catches small animals from the water. Good light and occasional feeding are complementary; food cannot compensate for unsuitable placement, unstable water or excessive current.

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Prepare the aquarium before adding the coral

A placement that works while the coral is contracted can become dangerous after it expands. Plan for the adult footprint, not the bagged specimen.

  1. Choose a level base. Use a clean sandbed or a smooth lower shelf with no sharp edges. If the aquarium has large burrowing animals, protect the coral from being buried or overturned.
  2. Check stability. The skeleton should not rock when a snail, fish or cleaning magnet passes nearby. A shallow depression in the sand can help keep it upright without trapping the tissue.
  3. Measure clearance. Start with at least 6 inches (about 15 cm) from neighboring corals. AquariumSource and Extreme Corals both use six inches as a practical reference, but the needed distance depends on the specimen’s expansion and the layout.
  4. Keep the tissue off abrasive surfaces. A fleshy polyp rubbing against a pump guard, overflow teeth or jagged rock can develop a tear that is difficult to heal.
  5. Observe the night footprint. Sweepers may extend after dark. Check the coral several hours after lights-out before deciding that daytime spacing is adequate.

Place the coral where you can reach it for inspection and feeding, but not directly beneath a return nozzle. Direct jets can pin the tissue against the skeleton or substrate.

Flow: gentle movement, not a pressure test

Care guides consistently favor low-to-moderate, indirect flow. The goal is a slow, irregular sway that keeps fresh, oxygenated water moving across the polyp and carries away waste without flattening the tentacles. AquariumSource gives a higher circulation-turnover figure than the low-to-moderate descriptions used by Eastwood Aquarium and Extreme Corals; because those recommendations use different units and definitions, an observable response is more useful than trying to average the numbers.

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  • Appropriate movement: tentacles bend and recover, the oral disc remains open, and fine particles do not settle on the mouth.
  • Too much flow: tissue is pushed in one direction, repeatedly folded over the skeleton, or unable to expand. Reduce the pump, redirect the nozzle, or use a baffle rather than moving the coral into a tight rock gap.
  • Too little flow: detritus accumulates, food remains on the polyp, or a slimy film develops. Add a broader, indirect current and remove debris with a baster at low pressure.

Make changes in small increments. A pump setting that appears mild in one aquarium can be forceful in another because nozzle size, depth and rockwork alter the water pattern.

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Light: compare the published PAR guidance, then acclimate

The inspected care sources do not agree on one universal PAR target. AquariumSource recommends 80–120 PAR, while Eastwood Aquarium and Extreme Corals give 50–150 PAR. These are hobby-care recommendations, not a controlled standard. Use them as starting guidance and consider the coral’s previous lighting, its position in your tank and its behavior.

Source Published PAR guidance How to use it
AquariumSource 80–120 PAR Place in a moderate-light area and avoid an abrupt jump from the transport or dealer system.
Eastwood Aquarium 50–150 PAR Use the broad range only as context; begin conservatively and watch expansion.
Extreme Corals 50–150 PAR Acclimate gradually rather than placing a newly arrived specimen directly under the strongest fixture zone.

When possible, measure PAR at the exact sandbed position instead of relying on a fixture’s wattage or a manufacturer’s mounting chart. Start at the lower end appropriate to the specimen’s history, then increase exposure slowly over several weeks. A light-acclimation mode, raised fixture or temporary shading screen can reduce the initial shock. Do not change intensity and flow on the same day; separating changes makes the coral’s response easier to interpret.

Persistent contraction, pale tissue or a polyp that stays tightly folded after the normal photoperiod indicates that the placement needs investigation. Check flow and water quality before assuming that more light is the answer.

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Feeding: supplemental small prey

Photosynthesis supplies baseline energy, while feeding provides animal protein and nutrients. The IUCN fact sheet notes that the coral captures small prey. Hobby guides describe feeding once or twice weekly, or a couple of times per week, so treat frequency as a flexible supplement rather than a mandatory schedule.

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Food mentioned by care sources Practical use
Frozen mysis shrimp A convenient small meaty food; thaw and rinse if the packing liquid is nutrient-rich.
Brine shrimp, krill, copepods or daphnia Offer pieces or particles small enough for the polyp to handle.
Chopped prawn Use finely chopped portions rather than a large lump that can decay on the mouth.
Commercial LPS coral food Follow the product’s preparation directions and avoid overdosing the aquarium.

Feed when the tentacles are extended, usually after the main lights dim. Turn off wavemakers briefly so the food is not blown away, and deliver a small portion with a pipette or baster. The coral should be able to draw the food inward without force. Restore gentle circulation after the feeding response begins, and remove uneaten pieces so they do not rot in the tissue or substrate.

Feeding is optional supplemental husbandry, not a replacement for appropriate light. If the coral is newly introduced, stressed or not extending, stabilize placement and water conditions before attempting larger meals.

Water parameters: stability matters more than chasing a number

Published hobby ranges differ. AquariumSource lists 74–83°F (23–28°C), pH 8.1–8.4, specific gravity 1.023–1.025 and alkalinity around 8–12 dKH. Corals.com gives narrower example values of 75–78°F, specific gravity 1.025–1.026, alkalinity 8–12 dKH and calcium 420–450 ppm. These figures are source-specific guidance, not a regulated or controlled-care standard.

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Parameter AquariumSource Corals.com Interpretation
Temperature 74–83°F (23–28°C) 75–78°F Keep temperature stable within the range your reef system can maintain; avoid rapid daily swings.
pH 8.1–8.4 Not stated Monitor trend and alkalinity rather than making abrupt pH corrections.
Specific gravity 1.023–1.025 1.025–1.026 Choose a reef-appropriate target and keep salinity consistent during evaporation and water changes.
Alkalinity 8–12 dKH 8–12 dKH Stability is more important than repeatedly adjusting toward the top or bottom of the range.
Calcium Not stated 420–450 ppm Maintain balanced reef chemistry; do not dose calcium in isolation without testing.

Use a reliable thermometer, salinity meter and test kits for alkalinity, calcium and pH trends. Match new saltwater to the aquarium before a water change. Correct deviations gradually: sudden salinity, alkalinity or temperature changes can cause more stress than a parameter that is slightly outside a hobby guide’s example range.

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Compatibility: assume the tentacles can sting

Elegance coral needs room because its expanded tentacles and sweepers can contact neighboring corals. Treat the six-inch spacing suggestion as a starting minimum, not a guarantee of compatibility. Leave extra distance when the specimen is large, when neighboring corals are aggressive, or when flow could carry tentacles toward them at night.

Watch for overnight contact, receding tissue at the edge, or a neighbor that repeatedly loses tissue on the side facing the elegance coral. If contact occurs, increase separation or alter the flow path. Do not rely on rockwork to keep two colonies apart if either can expand across the gap.

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Can elegance coral be fragged?

Routine fragging is generally discouraged. Extreme Corals states that fragging is not usually recommended because the coral has a sensitive single-polyp structure; cutting can cause serious tissue damage and infection. Unlike branching corals that can be divided along obvious growing tips, an elegance coral offers no forgiving, routine cut point for most aquarists.

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Propagation should therefore be considered an exceptional, specialist-level intervention rather than normal maintenance. If a specimen is injured, prioritize stable water, gentle flow and preventing secondary damage. Do not attempt an improvised cut with household tools, and do not treat a damaged polyp as an opportunity to make several “frags.”

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Troubleshooting common problems

The coral will not expand

  • Check whether a pump is delivering a direct jet or whether the tissue is rubbing against rock.
  • Confirm that the specimen was not moved suddenly from dim light into a high-PAR zone.
  • Test temperature, salinity and alkalinity for a sudden change, not just a single acceptable reading.
  • Look for overnight contact with another coral and increase the gap if necessary.

Food remains on the mouth

The portion may be too large, the coral may be too stressed to feed, or circulation may have been restarted too quickly. Remove the uneaten piece, wait until the polyp is fully extended, and try a smaller particle during the next feeding.

Tissue is tearing or being damaged

Inspect the skeleton and nearby rock for sharp points, verify that the base is stable, and reduce direct flow. Keep fish or invertebrates that repeatedly nip or overturn the coral away from it. Do not cut away tissue unless an experienced coral specialist has assessed the injury.

Detritus settles on the polyp

Increase broad, indirect circulation slightly and use a gentle baster to lift debris. Avoid blasting the coral with a high-pressure stream, which can worsen abrasion.

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A simple care routine

  • Daily: check expansion, tissue position, pump direction and whether sand or debris is covering the polyp.
  • Several times per week: inspect after dark for sweeper-tentacle contact and confirm that neighboring corals remain separated.
  • Once or twice weekly: offer a small meaty meal such as mysis if the coral is extended; remove leftovers.
  • Weekly: test the parameters most likely to drift in your system, compare them with prior results and perform a matched water change if scheduled.
  • After any equipment change: adjust light or flow gradually and observe the coral for several days before making another change.

Conservation and responsible sourcing

The IUCN Red List species fact sheet lists Catalaphyllia jardinei as Vulnerable. It also states that international trade requires a CITES permit and that unpermitted trade is an offence under CITES Appendix II. Rules can vary by country, shipment route and the coral’s collection history, so verify current requirements with the relevant authority before buying or importing.

An Australian Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water report published in 2022 recorded 782 kg of Catalaphyllia jardinei harvested in Western Australia in 2019. That is a historical, regional fishery figure—not a current estimate of worldwide aquarium trade. The same government assessment notes that recruitment and population-replenishment patterns were not known for the species in the assessed fishery context. Ask for lawful documentation and favor transparent, responsibly sourced specimens.

Bottom line for a first placement

Set elegance coral on stable sand or a smooth lower surface, start it in moderate indirect flow and a cautiously lit zone, and give the expanded polyp more room than its skeleton suggests. Use the published PAR values as source-specific guides rather than fixed thresholds, feed small meaty portions occasionally, keep reef chemistry steady, and regard fragging as an avoidable risk. This combination respects the coral’s free-living biology and gives you clear adjustments to make when expansion, feeding or tissue condition changes.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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