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For a planned first meeting, start outdoors on neutral ground with one handler per dog. Keep the dogs far enough apart to stay comfortable, reward calm behaviour, and move closer gradually only while both remain relaxed. They do not have to greet or walk side by side; if either dog becomes worried, create distance or end the meeting.
Before you arrange a meeting
Consider whether both dogs are healthy and whether either has a history of fear, aggression, or reacting strongly on lead. Some dogs find an on-lead encounter harder, so do not treat a planned greeting as something the dogs must complete. If you are concerned about either dog’s behaviour, skip the meeting and ask a veterinarian or qualified behaviour professional for individual guidance.
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Choose a neutral outdoor place with enough room to move away. Arrange one capable handler for each dog, and use leads that let handlers maintain control without preventing the dogs from moving apart. An older RSPCA UK companion-animal factsheet gives 1.5 metres as an example of a longer lead; that is an example, not a universal measurement. RSPCA UK’s dog-introduction factsheet is version 2 from 2011, so treat it as general guidance rather than a substitute for advice tailored to your dogs.
How to introduce two dogs on a walk
- Begin at a comfortable distance. Have each handler hold one dog, with enough space between them that neither is overwhelmed.
- Reward calm behaviour. As the dogs notice one another, reward calm, friendly responses. Keep watching both dogs rather than focusing only on the dog you are handling.
- Close the gap gradually. Move nearer only if both dogs continue to seem comfortable. If either becomes worried or overwhelmed, increase the distance or stop.
- Try walking in the same direction if it suits them. Side-by-side walking can be a later progression, not a required finish. The goal is a safe, calm experience—not contact or friendship on demand.
- End without forcing a greeting. If the dogs are not comfortable, calmly move away. Do not leave them together unsupervised until it is clear that they enjoy one another’s company.
RSPCA Australia’s guidance recommends a neutral outdoor meeting with separate handlers, beginning at a distance and reducing it gradually while the dogs remain comfortable. Read RSPCA Australia’s introduction guidance (updated May 29, 2024).
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What to do if the dogs squabble or one seems uneasy
If the dogs squabble, walk them away from one another and give them time to settle. The RSPCA UK factsheet advises trying again only when both are calm and relaxed; do not rush a reintroduction. If either dog appears anxious or overwhelmed, create more space or end the encounter rather than pulling the dog toward the other.
For a casual encounter with an unfamiliar dog, ask the other dog’s owner before approaching. Let the dogs’ comfort and the handlers’ ability to maintain control decide whether to continue; a dog does not need to greet every dog it meets.
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Puppies and socialisation
Socialisation means gradually introducing a puppy to a range of experiences, not exposing it to every dog or pushing through fear. If a puppy is worried, give it more space or remove it from the situation. Ask your veterinarian when outdoor encounters are appropriate after vaccination: the timing can depend on the puppy’s health risks and circumstances.
When to seek professional help
If your dog is scared of or aggressive toward other dogs, avoid situations that trigger the response and consult a veterinarian or clinical animal behaviourist. Persistent conflict during introductions between dogs in the same household also warrants professional help. RSPCA Australia notes that individualized cases may require separation, behaviour modification, and sometimes medication in the short term; a brief encounter is not enough to diagnose the cause.
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Use reward-based training
Reward calm behaviour with praise or treats rather than trying to force an interaction. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends reward-based methods for all dog training, including behaviour problems, and advises against aversive methods such as leash corrections, choke chains, prong collars, and electronic collars. See AVSAB’s position statements.
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